CAGE'N BIRD

HAND-FEEDING IMPLEMENTS: METHOD AND TECHNIQUE

By

Wanda Barras

PREPARATION FOR HAND-FEEDING

Preparing for your first hand-feeding undertaking is a time filled with choices, particularly choosing a favored method of feeding. A variety of useful utensils which can either be purchased or handmade are readily available to aviculturists.

Syringes, tubes, pipettes and spoons are some of the most common tools used by aviculturists. Some hand-feeders are known to use turkey basters, squeeze bottles, tiny paint brushes and even paper or styrofoam cups, bent to form a spout. Whether you favor pipettes, pre-bent spoons, syringes or feed tubes is strictly a personal decision. The important thing is to select a technique which is most comfortable to you and the chicks you will be hand-feeding. Anyone who hand-feeds has a preferred method of feeding babies. What works for one may not work for another. Listen to and learn from experienced hand-feeders.

Have on hand an accurate diagram of avian anatomy and become familiar with the general location of a bird’s major internal organs and physiology. Read about the various procedures and be aware of tools available. You are not limited to one method or tool. Have options available, as circumstance may dictate an alternate choice of appliance or a technique more beneficial to the situation 

HAND-FEEDING IMPLEMENTS

The feeding apparatus and procedure chosen should be appropriate to the chick’s condition, age, size and species. A feeding tool as small as an eye dropper or as large as a 100cc syringe may be your feeding device of choice. A small artist’s paintbrush can be handy for feeding newly hatched canary or finch chicks, while a 10cc syringe with 6" of latex tubing is ideal for feeding young, 3-week-old cockatiels. Bent spoons work well when hand-feeding Lories, who feed naturally by lapping up their food. Neonates or ill chicks with little or no feeding response would require tube or "gavage’ feeding. The circumstances and choices are endless. Experiment. Find what works best for you and the babies you are feeding.

PERSONAL FAVORITE

My feeding utensil of choice is the syringe, which is available in various sizes ranging from ½cc to 100cc’s. There is even a 12cc curved-tip syringe on the market. A syringe is easy to use, fast and sanitary. A known volume of food may be administered effectively and efficiently. Syringe sizes should increase as birds grow.. Large-tipped ‘catheter’ syringes (available in sizes of 12cc, 35cc, 60cc and 100cc capacities) are useful for feeding older chicks of the larger species such as Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos and Macaws. These syringes make it possible to feed a thick formula more efficiently. The new styles of syringes available today are long-lasting and easily disinfected. These sturdy syringes are safe, economical and easier to use than the old fashioned Monoject syringes. Some hand-feeders use syringes to shoot food into the crop of babies. The tip of the syringe is placed on the left side of the bird’s mouth, when a feeding response is initiated, the food is quickly shot toward the back of the head. For experienced feeders, this procedure proves to be relatively safe, but does require some practice. Ideally, the feeding tools should be changed or disinfected between feeding each baby. Realistically, change or disinfect when moving between babies from different clutches or those which are not being reared in the same brooder.

FROM DAY ONE

Syringes can also be used to slowly dribble formula into the mouth of a bird with successful results. I prefer this method for feeding babies under 1 week, especially those under 3 days. For day-ones, I use a tiny 1cc or 1ml ‘tuberculin’ syringe. I feed from 0.1cc to 0.6cc’s for the first feeding depending on the size and species of the neonate. The syringe is held in the feeder’s right hand while gently supporting the baby with the left hand. The baby faces the hand-feeder: a left handed feeder faces the baby away from him. The 1cc syringe allows you to feed very small amounts safely without drowning tiny hatchlings. Gently support the neonate and place the tip of the tiny syringe on the corner of the left side of the baby’s beak. Touching the beak of a healthy chick will initiate a feeding response. Using slight pressure on the syringe, dribble tiny amounts of very liquid formula into the chick’s beak as he initiates a feeding response. You will be feeding small amounts often..

After a few days, I begin to add soft latex tubing of appropriate size to the end of progressively larger syringes as the baby grows. I prefer the gavage method, because I find it practical, extremely safe, time saving and a more natural method of providing nutrition. Extreme caution should be practiced whenever using a stainless steel feeding needle. Gavage needles should be utilized with discretion. Needles are recommended for administering medications and nutrients to ill birds, especially mature parrots. As the pumping (feeding) movements of Neonates, under 1-week-old are less violent, they can be fed successfully using a feeding needle. I suggest using soft latex tubing as the better choice for basic hand-feeding.

After a few days, I begin to add soft latex tubing of appropriate size to the end of progressively larger syringes as the baby grows. I prefer the gavage method, because I find it practical, extremely safe, time saving and a more natural method of providing nutrition. Extreme caution should be practiced whenever using a stainless steel feeding needle. Gavage needles should be utilized with discretion. Needles are recommended for administering medications and nutrients to ill birds, especially mature parrots. As the pumping (feeding) movements of Neonates, under 1-week-old are less violent, they can be fed successfully using a feeding needle. I suggest using soft latex tubing as the better choice for basic hand-feeding. 

EASY TO LEARN, BUT TAKE CARE!

Gavage or tube feeding is a relatively easy technique to learn. The procedure is very simple and is readily learned if demonstrated by an experienced breeder or veterinarian. Gavage feeding can be a dangerous procedure if used improperly, but when mastered, the technique is not difficult to perform. There is a booklet available by

T. J. Lafeber, Proper Technique for Passing a Feeding Tube, which describes the gavage technique in detail, with anatomical drawings and charts. Flexible latex tubing of approximately 6" or so in length (commercially available in various sizes: tiny Parakeet, Cockatiel, Amazon and Macaw) attached to the end of a syringe enables the precise feeding of a known volume directly into the crop, thus eliminating aspiration. Tubing should be long enough to reach from the bottom of the crop, to about ½" outside the mouth. Three things to keep in mind when gavage feeding are:

1) Due to the esophagus’ ability to stretch, always choose the larger feeding tube over the smaller. There is less chance of entering the Trachea (windpipe) when using a larger tube. Tube size should increase with age..

2) The wall of the esophagus and crop is extremely thin and subject to puncture. never force a feeding tube or feeding needle. The apparatus should slide easily into the crop.

3. The curve in the bend of the neck is easily punctured. Gently tilt baby’s head up while rotating soft tubing down the esophagus. never force! Crops should be gently filled to a plump, but not tight stage. It is better to feed a little less than too much. This applies to any method of feeding.

BULBS AND PIPETTES

Bulb syringes are commonly used for hand-feeding large-species babies. This specialty syringe consists of a large rubber bulb, which fits onto a wide syringe body. The bulb acts as a plunger, which sucks formula up and expels it out when pressure is applied. The usual size is a 60cc capacity. When utilizing the bulb as a storage reservoir, the 60cc size bulb syringe is able to hold up to 140cc’s of formula. This size is handy for feeding hungry Macaw babies. The shooting technique described earlier is most often used. The tip of the syringe is placed on the left side of the bird’s mouth. When a feeding response is initiated, the food is quickly shot into the bird’s right side, toward the back of the head, down the esophagus, into the crop. I prefer a lessviolent method of feeding.

Plastic pipettes which come in various sizes are used by a large number of breeders. Pipettes hold only a few cc’s or ml’s of formula and require repeated fillings to feed large babies. The largest pipette capacity is approximately 7ml to 10ml. Pipettes work similarly to a bulb syringe and can be used to dribble or shoot formula into the baby’s beak. Formula is sucked up, then expelled by pinching the small bulb end. This tool can be especially handy when feeding tiny babies. Because they are difficult to disinfect, pipettes should be purchased in large quantities and disposed of after each use.

Spoon feeding is the method most chosen by beginners because it is user-friendly. Almost anyone can get the hang of spoon feeding. Spoon feeding is very slow, but is more personal. This is a good choice for someone feeding one or just a few babies. This method is slower and less efficient, especially if feeding numerous chicks. The normal procedure is to use a spoon with edges bent inward to hold formula. Initiate a feeding response and feed the formula one spoonful at a time, until the baby is satisfied. The baby’s feeding movements will pump the spoon and keep food moving toward the tip. This technique can prove to be messy, but it does seem to simulate the natural feeding of parent birds.

SPOON-FED ARE GENTLER BIRDS? NOT REALLY!

Through my 10 years of handfeeding, trying different methods and observing other hand-feeders, I have not noticed any behavioral differences associated with hand-feeding method or technique. Gavage babies are just as gentle and wean just as quickly as spoon fed. What makes the difference is the time spent socializing and touching babies. Remember, a feeding instrument is only a tool to be used to get nutrition into a chick. A baby’s emotional, physical and psychological needs must also be met. No tool or technique is the absolute best. What suits one person or one species may not be the best for another. Different species may require different feeding methods or utensils. Be flexible and open-minded, but do not change a successful feeding routine for the sake of experimentation. If you must experiment, do so wisely and judiciously.

HAND-REARING FORMULA

My hand-feeding formula of choice is Kaytee Exact. I find it easy to use and is accepted by most species from hatch through weaning. I especially recommend Exact for those feeding cockatiels, lovebirds and quakers. I DO NOT recommend using homemade formulas. The potential for bacterial contamination in homemade formulas is considerably higher then in commercial formulas. Commercial, ready-to-use formulas are much safer to use then homemade formulas. The extrusion process used in preparing hand-feeding diets kills bacteria. Most ready-made, commercial formulas used properly will produce healthy chicks. It is essential that you read and follow the instructions provided with ready-made formulas. Understanding and properly following the directions can mean the difference between success and failure. Always discard unused formula. Never use a microwave to heat formula. Always use a thermometer to check temperature. It is best to use sterile water, hot filtered tap water or hot bottled water. Do not add fatty substances (oils, peanut butter, etc.) to comercial hand-feeding formulas. These diets are complete for modt species and supplements may cause fatal problems such as fatty liver disease.

Although not absolutely necessary, weight data is helpful to monitor the chicks progress. A healthy chick should gain weight every single day until he approaches weaning. To accurately check a chick’s weight he should be weighed using a high quality gram scale. Weigh at the same time every morning, on a empty crop. Keep accurate records of weights and observations. This data may be helpful in future studies. Growth and development can be assessed visually. If you are an inexperienced hand-feeder this can be tricky. Eventually you will be able to sense if something is just not right with a baby. Until you acquire this 'gift' it is better to purchase a good gram scale and compare your data to established weight charts. Monitoring weight gain and loss is the best way to identify a problem before it becomes visually obvious.

TROUBLESHOOTING POOR WEIGHT GAIN
If problems are noted, consider:

In the middle of the first week I convert from syringe feeding to tube feeding. I use small gauge latex tubing. This method, if performed properly, is the most efficient and makes it less likely for accidental aspiration to occur. If you are more comfortable using a syringe or pipette, feel free to continue—this is a personal choice. The size of the feeding implement should change as formula thickens and the chick grows. Do not overfeed, as this may result in crop overfill, regurgitation and possible aspiration which can cause medical problems or death. Adjust feeding utensils and methods accordingly. Ideally, a separate syringe or feeding utensil should be used for each chick or for each clutch. This precaution can possibly prevent the spread of disease.

After the first critical week the baby’s crop will be able to hold enough food to sustain him for several hours. At two weeks he should be fed about four to five times a day. At three weeks, three to four times a day. (These are approximates, amount may vary with different species and formulas.) Allowing the crop to become completely empty between feedings is recommended, but not absolutely necessary. Waiting for an empty crop keeps old formula from remaining in the crop for extended periods. Old formula may breed bacteria and also lead to fungal related medical problems.

Below are the approximate crop capacity ranges for some popular species. These numbers are not to be interpreted as the rule. Remember all babies are individuals, environmental factors may vary, proper adjustments should be made. These figures are valid for babies over two weeks old.

There is a great deal of individuality among birds—even between clutch mates. Consequently, what works for one breeder may not be successful for another. The ultimate success in hand-rearing lies in following these basic hand-feeding practices with determination, dedication and a willingness to learn. Experience comes with time and hard work.

MAXIMUM CROP CAPACITIES

Copyright © 2001 Wanda Barras. All Rights reserved. WWW users are granted the right to download a single copy of this catalog and Mrs. Barras articles for archival on electronic media and/or conversion into a single printed copy for personal use. All commercial or educational use or reproduction of this material is strictly prohibited. It may not otherwise be reprinted or recopied, in whole or in part, in any form or medium, without express written permission of Wanda Barras.

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